The Bamboo Garden

July 11th




One of the hottest days of the summer and we were looking for a good spot to swim in the River Dordogne, east of Bergerac. We found a place near Le Buisson de Cadouin just upstream from where the smaller River Vezere joins the Dordogne. The water here was shallow and fast flowing and we struggled against the current and flowing reeds to reach a place to swim.

Bertie our Border terrier, had to be held to prevent him being swept downstream. There were two fishermen in waders who appeared quite unperturbed by our presence and Bertie’s furious paddling.

Having cooled down we decided to head for home and it was then that we stumbled on Planbuisson just up the road from our swimming place and on the junction of the D710 and the D29.

We noticed the “bamboo jardin” sign near a railway crossing, down a narrow lane leading to a small hamlet. We saw some bamboo plants on the side of the road and thought that this was some sort of a Perpinier. It was only when we parked the car and investigated further that we realised we had stumbled on an oasis of bamboo that turned out to be the largest collection of bamboo plants in Europe. Two hundred and seventy varieties of bamboo were on show in a garden covering three acres (1.5 hectares.)

A maze of paths, lined with walnut shells, lead us through dense thickets of sturdy, mature bamboo of all shapes, sizes and colours. Thick green, light and dark brown shoots spiralled high into a dense forest of green leaves. Each twist and turn lead to a new discovery – small clearings with fountains cascading through a series of intricate bamboo watercourses, bridges constructed of bamboo and peaceful spots to sit and admire the foliage and listen to hanging bamboo chimes.

Planbuisson was founded by Michel Bonfils who has dedicated twenty years of his life to creating this extraordinary Bamboo paradise. He told us he uses no pesticides or insecticides and that his healthy crop of bamboo needed little watering but constant attention. He and his only gardener tend this fabulous plantation round the clock. Michel told me he had never been to China - one of several sources for his bamboo plants - because he was unable to leave his garden for any more than three days at a time.